Metal Fences and Gates in Aurora's Tanner Historic District

The district sits on Aurora's near west side, roughly between Plum and New York Streets and between View and Wilder Streets. We work on homes throughout that area, from the blocks near Wilder Park to the streets around the Tanner House.

For metal fence installation, we lay out the fence line, set post spacing, dig post holes, and mount steel, aluminum, or ornamental metal fence panels. Where the yard slopes, we rack or step the panels so the picket spacing stays even and the bottom rail keeps its ground clearance.

For custom gate and fence fabrication, we take field measurements, draw the gate or panel, cut the metal, and weld the frame. We check frame squareness and hinge mounting plates during shop fit-up so the gate hangs true when it reaches your yard.

We install driveway gates as single swing, double swing, or sliding gates. We install pedestrian gates for front walks and side yards, with self-closing hinges and latches set to the swing direction you need.

For gate and fence repair, we correct gate sag, replace hinges, repair latches and cracked welds, replace bent pickets, and stabilize loose posts. For metal gate and fence refinishing, we remove rust and failing coatings, prime the bare metal, and apply an exterior topcoat or powder coating.

The Tanner Historic District is locally regulated. A new fence or gate here needs historic design approval before installation. We prepare fabrication drawings and field measurements early, and we do not set posts or hang gates until the approval is in hand. Our Aurora fence permit guide and historic district fence guide cover the approval steps.

The district's fence rules allow new cast-iron fences where they suit the architectural style of the house. That changes how we design. We match picket profile, rail spacing, finials, and post caps to the house rather than pulling a stock panel off a rack. When a homeowner wants an ornamental metal fence, we sketch it against the front of the home first.

Building here started in 1842, when the area was West Aurora, and continued after Aurora and West Aurora joined in 1857. The homes show a broad range of Victorian-era styles. That means we look closely at any older fence, gate hardware, and posts on the property. Before we replace anything, we check whether an old section can be repaired, rewelded, and refinished to stay in place.

Some blocks in the district were shaped by the automobile. On those properties we measure gate opening width, swing clearance, and ground clearance against the actual drive. A double swing gate that clears a flat drive can drag on one that crowns or slopes.

The neighborhood grew as housing for people working downtown and on the railroad, much like the Near Eastside. We dig post holes by hand where roots or tight access call for it, and we set posts in concrete footings sized to the gate weight they carry. Our post-digging guide explains that part of the job.

We start by walking the fence line and every gate. We check post plumb, hinge wear, latch alignment, weld condition, picket damage, and how much rust sits under the coating. On tubular frames, we check for water trapped inside the tubing, because that rust works from the inside out.

For a new fence or gate, we measure the site, mark the fence layout, and draw the design for approval. Once the approval is in place, we fabricate the gate or fence. We cut and weld the frames, check squareness, and test-fit hinges and latches before installation.

On installation day, we dig the post holes, set the posts in concrete, and brace them plumb while the concrete cures. We mount panels with panel brackets, then hang gates and adjust the hinges. We set gate stops and drop rods on driveway gates so they hold open and closed. We line up the latch last and check that the gate swings, closes, and catches without force.

For repairs, we separate a hinge or latch problem from a post problem. A gate that drags because its post has leaned will drag again after a hinge swap. We straighten or reset the post first, then realign the gate.

For refinishing, we degrease the metal, remove rust and failing coating by abrasive blasting or mechanical sanding, and assess the corrosion underneath. We weld in new metal where rust has eaten through. We then apply a metal primer and an exterior topcoat or powder coating that is compatible with the primer, and we let the finish cure before the gate goes back into daily use.

Do I need approval for a new fence in the Tanner Historic District?

Yes. Exterior work in the district requires historic design approval. We prepare drawings and measurements for the fence or gate and wait for approval before we install.

Can you repair my old iron fence instead of replacing it?

Often, yes. If the posts are sound and the rails still hold, we can reweld cracked joints, replace bent pickets, remove the rust, and refinish the fence. If the posts have rotted at the base or the frame has rusted through, we replace those parts and tell you which ones before quoting.

Why does my gate keep sagging?

Most sag comes from a leaning post, worn hinges, or a frame that has lost its square. We check all three. We reset or stabilize the post, replace worn hinges, and brace or reweld the frame so the gate holds its line.

Will new paint stop the rust?

Not by itself. Paint over rust peels again. We remove the rust and old coating down to sound metal, prime it, and topcoat it. If water is getting inside a tube, we fix that too.

What affects the price?

Fence length, gate size, custom fabrication, post count, access, and refinishing work all change the price. Our fence and gate cost guide explains each one, and our project process guide walks through the steps from measurement to final adjustment.

Call (630) 473-9918 or request an estimate for metal fence and gate work in the Tanner Historic District. Tell us whether the gate sags, drags, or won't latch, or where rust is showing. We will inspect the fence and gates, measure the site, and put the recommended work in writing.