Services in Near Eastside
The district runs roughly between Lincoln and Fourth Streets and between Downer Place and South Avenue.
For metal fence installation, we lay out the fence line, set posts in concrete footings, and hang steel, aluminum, or ornamental metal panels. Where the yard slopes, we rack or step the panels so the pickets stay plumb and the bottom rail keeps an even gap above grade.
For pedestrian gate installation, we set the gate posts, hang the gate, and line up the latch. We set the swing direction and clear opening width so the gate clears the walk and the front steps. For driveway gate installation, we size single swing, double swing, or sliding gates to the opening and check ground clearance across the full swing.
When the existing fence or gate is worth keeping, we handle gate and fence repair: gate sag correction, hinge replacement, latch repair, weld repair, bent picket replacement, and post stabilization. For worn finishes, our metal gate and fence refinishing work removes rust and failed coatings and puts a new primer and topcoat on bare, clean metal. When a house needs a gate or panel that no catalog carries, we build it through custom gate and fence fabrication.

How Local Conditions Affect the Work
Near Eastside work starts with approval, not digging. Because the district is locally regulated, exterior work needs historic approval before it begins. We take field measurements, draw the fence or gate, and list the material and finish so the application shows exactly what we plan to build. We do not order material or set posts until that approval is in hand. Our historic district fence guide and Aurora fence permit guide cover the steps in more detail.
The houses shape the design. Near Eastside streets still carry the range of Victorian styles built between 1860 and 1900. On Clark Street alone, an Italianate house from 1883 to 1886 stands near a 1904 Dutch Colonial Revival. Leading Aurora families built their homes along Fourth, Lincoln, and LaSalle Streets. We size picket spacing, post caps, and rail heights to the house in front of them, not to a standard panel.
The lots are tight. The neighborhood was almost fully built out by the early 1900s, so front yards are short and side yards are narrow. We measure gate swing against steps, walks, and the neighbor's line before we place a hinge post. On a narrow side yard, a gate that swings the wrong way blocks the path it is meant to open.
The trees stay. Front-yard and parkway trees in the district can come out only when they are diseased, damaged, or dead. We lay out the fence around them. We shift post spacing, shorten a panel, or hand-dig post holes near large roots instead of cutting through them. You can read more about this in our guide to digging fence posts.
Old chain link is common here. Chain link fences are among the most frequent changes made to older properties, and changes made before the district was designated are treated as existing non-original conditions. When we replace an old chain link run with metal fencing, we measure and photograph what stands there first. That record shows where the old line ran and how it was built.

How We Do the Work
We start on site. We walk the fence line, check each post for movement, and swing every gate. We inspect each gate for sag, binding hinges, cracked welds, loose fasteners, and dragging on the walk. We tap and inspect tubing for water trapped inside, which rusts metal from the inside out. Then we write down the repair, fabrication, and installation work the job needs.
For new fences, we mark post locations, dig the post holes, and set posts in concrete footings. We check every post for plumb and height before the concrete sets. Once the footings cure, we mount panel brackets and hang the panels, checking alignment along the full run.
For gates, we square the frame, mount the hinge plates, and hang the gate with even ground clearance. We set gate stops and drop rods on double gates so the leaves hold in place. Then we adjust the hinges and line up the latch so the gate closes without lifting or slamming.
For custom work, we build from fabrication drawings and our own field measurements. We cut, weld, and check frame squareness, then fit the piece before it goes out for finish.
For refinishing, we degrease the metal and remove rust and failed coatings by abrasive blasting or mechanical sanding. We check how far the corrosion goes. Where tubing traps water, we drain it and close it off before coating. Then we prime bare metal and apply an exterior topcoat or powder coating that bonds with the primer. Our project process guide walks through each stage.

Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need approval to replace my fence in the Near Eastside?
Yes. Exterior work in the district needs historic approval before it starts. We give you the measurements, drawings, and material and finish details the application needs. We schedule installation after approval comes through.
Can you fix my old gate instead of replacing it?
Often, yes. If the frame is sound, we correct the sag, replace worn hinges, repair cracked welds, and realign the latch. If rust has eaten through the frame or tubing, we tell you which parts need new metal and quote that work.
Will a new fence mean cutting down my front-yard tree?
No. We lay the fence around the tree. We adjust post spacing, use a shorter panel, or hand-dig near roots so the post lands clear of the trunk.
Can you match the fence to my house?
Yes. We measure the house details and the site, then size pickets, rails, and caps to fit. When a stock panel will not work, we fabricate the gate or panels to the drawing.
What affects the price?
Fence length, gate count, material, post work, custom fabrication, refinishing, and access all change the price. We measure and inspect before we write the estimate. Our cost factors guide explains each one.
Request an Estimate
Call (630) 473-9918 or request an estimate for metal fence and gate work in the Near Eastside. Tell us whether your gate sags, drags, or won't latch, or where rust and peeling paint have taken hold. We will come out, measure the site, check the posts and metal, and put the recommended work in writing.
★★★★★
Had one section leaning after the storms. They reset the posts and straightened it out. Looks solid again.
