Fences and Gates in Aurora's Historic Districts

Aurora has four local historic districts: Near Eastside (1981), Riddle Highlands (1989), Tanner (1998), and Palace Street (1999). In those districts, any change to the exterior of a property needs historic approval, and fences are on the list of covered work. Gates and walls count the same way. A new gate across a front walk is an improvement to the property, just like a full run of fence.

Three other districts work differently. Westside, LaSalle Street Auto Row, and Stolp Island are nationally listed districts, and historic approval is not required there. The regular permit rules still apply. Our Aurora fence permit guide covers that side of the job.

The order stays the same on every historic job. We confirm the district, design to the limits, get approval, pull the permit, and then install.

We confirm the district. We check your address against the district map before we draw anything. A house one block outside a boundary follows different rules than the house inside it.

We measure the site. We walk the fence line, mark the corners, and take field measurements at every post location, gate opening, and grade change. We note the style of the house, the porch height, and any existing fence, curb, or retaining wall. On older lots we often find a surviving iron fence or a stone curb that shows what was there first.

We design to the yard limits. Front, interior side, and rear yards carry different height limits. Openness decides the front-yard height. We calculate the open area from the picket width and picket spacing on the actual panel. We do not guess at it.

We prepare the drawings. Our fabrication drawings show panel heights, picket spacing, post spacing, gate opening widths, hinge side, and swing direction. We add a site plan with the fence line marked against the house and lot lines. Those drawings go with your application.

Approval comes before the permit. A minor change can be approved at staff level, and the building permit follows. A major change goes to a review subcommittee first. A like-for-like replacement of a short front fence is a different project than a new six-foot run down a side lot line. We plan the schedule around the review your project goes to.

We fabricate and install. We build what was approved. We cut and weld steel or aluminum frames, check frame squareness, and mount hinge plates before install. On site we dig post holes, set posts in concrete footings, and align panels across grade changes. Older lots often hide buried brick, old footings, and roots near the line. Our post digging guide covers what we hit and how we handle it. We hang the gates, set gate stops and drop rods, and adjust hinges and latches until each gate swings clear and closes clean.

The full sequence from first call to final adjustment is in our project process guide.

Front yards. A front-yard fence more than half open stays at 42 inches or lower. A fence less than half open stays at 36 inches or lower. That makes picket spacing a height decision. Ornamental metal pickets with standard spacing clear the open line, so a front-yard metal fence can usually go to the full 42 inches. Tighter spacing or added decorative panels can drop it below the line, and then the fence comes down to 36 inches.

Interior side yards. A fence up to 72 inches can be approved in an interior side yard, but only if the part above 60 inches is more than half open. We build that as an open upper band across the top of the fence, or as an open picket fence for the full height. We mark the start of the open section on the drawings so the review sees exactly where it begins.

Rear yards. Wood board privacy fences belong in the rear yard and stay at six feet or under. When a project pairs wood privacy in back with metal in front, we hold the metal fence and gates to the front and side limits and detail the corner where the two meet.

Cast iron and house style. New cast-iron fences can be added where they fit the architectural style of the building. The house leads the design. We match the picket profile, top rail, post caps, and decorative metalwork to the period of the house and show each detail on the drawings. Our custom fabrication work starts from those measurements.

Old fences worth saving. Many historic lots still have original metal fence. We check for rust, cracked welds, loose posts, and water trapped inside tubing. If the frame is sound, we repair the damaged sections and refinish the metal with rust removal, abrasive blasting, primer, and an exterior topcoat.

Do I need approval to replace an old fence in a historic district?

In the four local districts, yes. Fence replacement is covered exterior work, not only new fence. We draw the replacement and include it with your application.

Is a gate treated differently from a fence?

No. Gates count as improvements, the same as fences and walls. A new walk-through gate or driveway gate goes through the same review.

How tall can my front fence be?

42 inches if the fence is more than half open. 36 inches if it is less than half open. We figure the openness from the panel design before we set the height.

Can I put up a six-foot privacy fence?

In the rear yard, yes, up to six feet. In an interior side yard, up to 72 inches can be approved if everything above 60 inches is more than half open.

My house is in the Westside district. Do I need historic approval?

No. Westside, LaSalle Street Auto Row, and Stolp Island do not require it. Regular permit rules still apply, and we build to those.

Does the review add cost?

The drawings and any ornamental detail add work. A plain open picket fence costs less than a custom panel matched to the house. Our cost factors guide breaks down what moves the price.

Call (630) 473-9918 or contact us about a fence or gate in an Aurora historic district. Tell us the address, which yard the fence goes in, and whether an old fence is still standing. We will confirm the district, measure the site, and draw a fence that fits both the house and the limits for your yard. You can read more about our company before you call.